The
papers/visas are all obtainable on the Moroccan/Mauritanian
border, so not necessary to pr-arrange your visa.
There're
hundreds of miles of landmine's along the Moroccan and Mauritanian
border but a safe passage has been cleared between the border
posts. After leaving the Moroccan border you enter "no
mans land" which is a couple of kilometers of rough desert
before the Mauritanian border post. As soon as you enter "no
mans land" you'll get waved down by money changers and
guides who will no doubt claim they have the best rates for
changing money and that crossing to the Mauritanian border
is dangerous without a guide. One chap who crossed 20 minutes
in front of us changed some money here and got ripped off!
So my advice is ignore all these time wasters. There's loads
of traffic using this border and very clear tracks leading
across. The plastic fantastic campers cross here with no trouble
off-road so any vehicle will get across. The only hazards
are some patches of soft sand (easily visible) and stripped
out vehicle carcasses (non of which have been destroyed by
landmine's).
Entering
the Mauritanian border you will be ordered to park so that
the inside of your vehicle can be promptly inspected by the
boarder guards. I was expecting a search for alcohol, drugs
and other illegal items. Instead the guards opened all the
cupboards asking if they could have everything they could
see. They paid particular attention to the more valuable items
such as my guitar and electronic items. This went on for some
15 minutes, they were getting frustrated and I'd had enough.
I was adamant that I wouldn't fold and give in to their bullying
but enough was enough. I offered them a half empty promotional
can of Gillette shaving foam! All but one walked off in disgust
and the last guy accepted after a couple more minutes trying
to get his hands on something far more valuable. What's my
advice for here? It's difficult when so many before have been
intimidated by these guys and given them what they wanted.
Everyone else I saw at the border gave the guards what they
wanted straight away to get rid of them. These guys are government
officials getting paid a government salary, they use their
authority to intimidate people into giving them gifts. As
Mauritania is one of the poorest countries in the world, most
of the population are worse off than border officials and
could benefit more from these "gifts".
Once your vehicle has been checked you're taken into an office
to have some details taken for national security. This is
no problem and only your passport is required.
Now
you move your vehicle along 50ft to stage two. First you have
to go to the immigration window, hand in your passport, where
you answer a couple of questions and pay €20 for a 3
day transit visa. Then move along to the customs shed and
complete form...

...
and pay €10. Then cross the road to a shed to buy insurance
and change money.
The
whole process took between two and three hours. You are now
free to enter Mauritania.
When
exciting the country...
Get
the customs form stamped at customs, passport to immigration,
drive down to the last office (first on the way in) and give
passport details. Enter no mans land. This took no longer
than 15 minute!
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